What's Cool About Thailand's Oldest Golf Course
Of the 250-odd golf courses in Thailand, one that no one seems to talk about is Royal Hua Hin. The few times I have heard someone mention it, the comment was roughly the same: "It's old and scruffy."
Fine. But if that's the definition of a bad track, I don't think there'd be a waiting list to play the Old Course at St. Andrews. I had to see it for myself.
So on Monday, I made my way from the oldest hotel in Hua Hin (Sofitel Centara Grand) to the oldest golf course in Thailand. It didn't take long. The two properties, built around the same time almost a century ago, are separated by about four blocks and a set of railroad tracks.
At first glance, I wasn't impressed. It was most certainly old. But not in the timeless kind of way. More like the forgot-about-it-30-years-ago kind of way. The clubhouse, with its rust colored wooden beams and furniture, has a '60s feel to it. Looking up the 18th fairway, from behind the green, there was no discernible difference between the fairway and rough. And the rentals were straight out your grandfather's garage.
"This'll be a challenge," I thought.
And it was. But not just because the clubs belonged in a museum. But because there is a maze of trees out there. From most tee boxes, the margin for error is slight -- both the 2nd and 6th offer extremely narrow slots through which to shoot. So does the 9th, which also requires a carry of at least 200 yards in order to clear the topiary and reach the fairway. The 4th is backdropped by a massive outcropping and the 5th is gorgeously framed by trees.
The 10th is a straightaway par-4 if there ever was one, but then the back nine gets good... especially at the par-3 14th, which plays slightly downhill to a false-front green guarded on both sides by bunkers and a majestic temple set in the lush hillside behind it. I didn't get a picture there because my camera died, but it's forever etched in my memory.
The home stretch is what all finishes should be -- a test. The par-3 16th plays at least 210 yards, with traps flanking the front of the green like a pair of nightclub bouncers. And the final two holes aren't just long dogleg left par 4s; they're tricky around the jar, thanks to greens more contoured than a Chihuly sculpture.
Sure, the old track is rough around the edges. But if you're in any way a purist, or find it even slightly compelling that a Scottish engineer was commissioned to design Thailand's first layout, I wouldn't miss it. Here's some footage I did manage to capture during my visit:
Fine. But if that's the definition of a bad track, I don't think there'd be a waiting list to play the Old Course at St. Andrews. I had to see it for myself.
So on Monday, I made my way from the oldest hotel in Hua Hin (Sofitel Centara Grand) to the oldest golf course in Thailand. It didn't take long. The two properties, built around the same time almost a century ago, are separated by about four blocks and a set of railroad tracks.
At first glance, I wasn't impressed. It was most certainly old. But not in the timeless kind of way. More like the forgot-about-it-30-years-ago kind of way. The clubhouse, with its rust colored wooden beams and furniture, has a '60s feel to it. Looking up the 18th fairway, from behind the green, there was no discernible difference between the fairway and rough. And the rentals were straight out your grandfather's garage.
"This'll be a challenge," I thought.
And it was. But not just because the clubs belonged in a museum. But because there is a maze of trees out there. From most tee boxes, the margin for error is slight -- both the 2nd and 6th offer extremely narrow slots through which to shoot. So does the 9th, which also requires a carry of at least 200 yards in order to clear the topiary and reach the fairway. The 4th is backdropped by a massive outcropping and the 5th is gorgeously framed by trees.
The 10th is a straightaway par-4 if there ever was one, but then the back nine gets good... especially at the par-3 14th, which plays slightly downhill to a false-front green guarded on both sides by bunkers and a majestic temple set in the lush hillside behind it. I didn't get a picture there because my camera died, but it's forever etched in my memory.
The home stretch is what all finishes should be -- a test. The par-3 16th plays at least 210 yards, with traps flanking the front of the green like a pair of nightclub bouncers. And the final two holes aren't just long dogleg left par 4s; they're tricky around the jar, thanks to greens more contoured than a Chihuly sculpture.
Sure, the old track is rough around the edges. But if you're in any way a purist, or find it even slightly compelling that a Scottish engineer was commissioned to design Thailand's first layout, I wouldn't miss it. Here's some footage I did manage to capture during my visit:
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